In his poem The Stubbing Wharfe, Ted Hughes recalls a maudlin trip back to his Yorkshire roots with wife Sylvia Plath, describing the place as “A gorge of ruined mills and abandoned chapels / The fouled nest of the Industrial Revolution.” While this might well have been a fair assessment of Hebden Bridge at the time, we doubt that either poet would recognise it now. Situated just down the way from Hughes’ birthplace of Mytholmroyd (you’ll find his childhood home turned holiday cottage at number one Aspinall Street), Hebden Bridge has undergone a dramatic transformation over the years, becoming a much-publicised hub for artists, writers and the creatively inclined, who’ve collectively formed a thriving artistic community. Unsurprisingly, it’s also home to one of Yorkshire’s longest running arts festivals, the Hebden Bridge Arts Festival.

On weekends, mud-splattered cyclists and dog walkers congregate around the main square, and visitors weave in and out of design-led craft shops, vintage emporiums and cafés. While there are plenty of distractions, any literature lovers planning a day out there will want to allot a good hour or so to explore every nook of The Book Case bookshop. If you’re planning a long walk while you’re there, then there’s enough going on that it might be worth staying the weekend: Triangle Cottage, on a hillside a short walk from the town centre, is a good option, with beautiful stone work and traditional beams.

Once you’ve exhausted the town centre, a short walk along the canal leads to the Stubbing Wharf pub, where Hughes’ aforementioned poem was set. It’s ideal for a pint and some quality pub grub. On the wall of the bar you’ll find a short history of the place – though this doesn’t explain where exactly Hughes acquired the surplus ‘e’ in the title of his work.

Up on the hillside above the town is Heptonstall. Sweet Briar cottage at the heart of the village is a lovely option if you’re thinking of staying the night: this Grade II listed, stone-built hideaway is an ideal jumping off point for more ambitious walks over the moors. Heptonstall is also remarkable as the final resting place of Sylvia Plath. Despite the fact that they were separated at the time of her death, that she was Boston-born and ended her life hundreds of miles away in London, it was Hughes who chose to bury the troubled poet here, close to his childhood homestead – despite his evisceration of the place. Plath herself even painted her own unflattering portrait of Heptonstall’s St Thomas’ Church in her poem November Graveyard.

Heptonstall is also remarkable as the final resting place of Sylvia Plath

You’ll find Plath’s grave in the newer section of churchyard, carved out in an adjacent field; famously, she’s buried as Sylvia Plath Hughes. The “Hughes” portion of the name plate is frequently vandalised (or even completely removed) by fans – resentful that, even in death, Plath seems to remain in her husband’s shadow.

Haworth, steeped in all its Brontë associations, is just a few miles down the road; in fact, Plath herself made the pilgrimage there on her Yorkshire visit with Hughes in 1956. The most obvious draw is the Brontë Parsonage Museum, the quaint building extended and carefully preserved in tribute to its talented former residents. Once you’ve taken in the room where Jane Eyre was written, and explored the world’s most extensive collection of Brontë exhibits, make your way past the school where Charlotte once taught and along to Haworth Church: there, you’ll find a stone marking the family vault.

Just behind the church at the top of the steep main street is the Black Bull pub, where capricious Brontë brother Branwell spent many hours squandering his money and artistic talents on gambling, gin and opium. The cobbled hill is dotted with shops and tea rooms – the perfumed scents that emanate from Rose & Co. Apothecary are particularly hard to resist.

If you want to sink even deeper into the romanticism of it all, stride out onto the moors to follow in the Bronte’s adventurous footsteps. Signposts out of the village lead to the picturesque Brontë waterfall, and then a slightly more challenging walk up to Top Withens, the supposed inspiration for the Wuthering Heights. There’s usually a trail of walkers on the path, but we suggest you familiarise yourself with the route and take a map, too – the moors can be disorientating.

Although measures have recently been taken to preserve what remains, the farmhouse that stands here is largely in ruins – and when you feel the wild force of the winds on the exposed hillside, you’ll understand why. Look out across the seemingly endless expanses of open land, however, you’ll feel at least some of the same sense of isolation and wonder that so captured Emily Brontë’s imagination.

On the way back towards the village, stop at the gently-themed The Wuthering Heights pub in Stanbury – a fittingly serene end to a long day. This is the kind of trip that allows you to appreciate how wonderful it is that some places can change so completely, and that others can remain totally untouched.

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Rumour has it that when the BBC workers relocating north were toured around property hotspots on a coach, they came to Ramsbottom. We don’t imagine many of them opted to buy there over the leafy likes of Didsbury or Hale. Transport is the main issue: it’s a 15-minute bus or car ride beyond Metrolink, and miles from the rail network. It may have a reputation as the kind of boho suburb that Manc hipsters graduate to when they’re ready to “settle down” (and yes, a vegan and raw food restaurant is poised to open). But this isn’t Chorlton. At its core it’s still a cussedly out-of-the-way mill town buried in the armpit of the Pennine moors. It’s a little bit too full-on, a little bit too grim on winter days, a little bit too Lancashire. But those of us who live there love it precisely because of that. Ramsbottom has character. It’s in a beautiful part of the countryside. And as a day-trip destination, it’s a corker.

Things to do
A walk up Holcombe Hill to Peel Tower is practically required of all visitors. It’s a short jaunt with a paved footpath and far-reaching views across to Beetham Tower (a restorative post-walk pint at the Shoulder of Mutton in tiny Holcombe village is also mandatory). But don’t be afraid to go exploring. The base of the hill is threaded with trails through woods and meadows, which extend along the valley bottom by the Irwell – at this time of year they’re a riot of bluebells and the wild garlic that is supposed to have given the town its amusing name. Ramsbottom is also the gateway to 90 square miles of glowering wild moorland. Serious walkers can go right across the West Pennine Moors to Darwen Tower or Rivington. Or get on to the Irwell Sculpture Trail, and walk all the way to Salford.

Right in town, enormous Nuttall Park has a fantastic playground and plenty of riverside picnic spots. Realise your Railway Children fantasy on the steam trains of the East Lancs Railway, whose whistles lend the valley a pleasant old-timey feel. This kicks into overdrive during Ramsbottom’s frequent 1940s weekends, when the place teems with Jerries and land girls.

The town loves a party so much that Bridge Street must be one of the most frequently blocked off streets in Britain (see the Black Pudding Throwing Championship, Chocolate Festival, Pie Festival and of course Ramsbottom Festival, which takes place every September; Visit Ramsbottom is the place to find out what’s on). If you’re looking to make a weekend of it, book a room at Church View House, a lush B&B in a lovingly renovated old house with legendary breakfasts.

Eating and drinking
Most tourists come hungry: Ramsbottom is something of a foodie haunt. This is mostly the legacy of sadly-departed fine dining superstar Ramsons, but a new generation of restauranteurs have taken up the torch. Our favourite is Levanter, a tapas bar serving fresh, authentic Spanish food – but it’s everyone else’s favourite too, and they don’t take bookings. The Eagle and Child is a real foodie’s pub where you can choose between specials like Lobster Newburg or their unimpeachable fish and chips.

On sunny days, head to the pub’s beer garden with its views of Peel Tower. Unlike most, it is actually a garden – they take their commitment to local produce very seriously, as the pub chickens will attest. The lovely Sanmini serves exceptional South Indian food in a very intimate setting. For quick fuel-ups there’s the justifiably popular Chocolate Café or Bailey’s Tearooms, replete with frilly aprons, sprigged wallpaper and gran-tastic cakes.

Beerwise, this town has serious game. Of Rammy’s three craft breweries the only one with a bar is Irwell Works, which has quickly become the go-to place for discerning ale fans. Nearby is the original First Chop, which spawned a brewing empire that now extends all the way to Salford – it’s a good choice for drinks, Lancashire-inflected snacks and live music. Wine lovers should stock up at the Vineyard and maybe hit upscale gastropub Hearth of The Ram for an interesting glass and a good meal, while whiskey drinkers should head for the hills where The Fisherman’s Retreat lurks with its famous 400-bottle collection. Be warned: it’s a long walk from town, with many hazards and obstacles to come to grief on, so arranging reliable transport back is strongly recommended.

Shopping
Ramsbottom high street is remarkably free of chain shops, and heavily favours independent, quirky specialists. It’s nice to know that you can get all your bird needs met at Northern Parrot. Or there’s Horse Bits, which always features a horse mannequin and rider outfitted in matching gear in its shop window. There are a few decent clothing/gift stores; a nice cook shop and organic beauty emporium Earth Mother Soul Sister, but people don’t really come here for shopping (we’ve got The Rock and Bury Market for that). Instead, there are a plethora of charity and antique shops to mooch around and weekend car boot sales outside the ELR station. If you’re canny, you’ll time your visit to coincide with the Farmer’s Market, where you can pick up everything from pakora to beeswax candles, all made nearby. Who needs Waitrose?

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The Hepworth remains, of course, the main reason to visit, its historic and contemporary exhibitions worthy of international attention. But it is not some cultural interloper, loved by tourists and loathed by locals. Its sterling family programmes, outdoor adventure playground, workshops (metal sculpture making, anyone?), artist talks and events make it a winner with Wakefordians; it is locals that, after all, make up a fair chunk of its record-breaking visitor numbers. Add a small but solid gallery shop, plus a restaurant whose cream teas deserve the epithet “majestic”, and The Hepworth has enough to keep visitors far and near entertained for the best part of the day.

But it is worth striking out. The Hepworth sits just outside the city centre, surrounded by noisy roads and most closely served by the rather grim Kirkgate Station – yet across the river lies the medieval Chantry Chapel of St. Mary, a Grade I-listed building and one of only three surviving “bridge chantries” in the UK. Its diminutive size sets it at odds with the great, grey hulk of a gallery opposite; if it’s open, brave the roads to take a look inside (open for occasional services and open days; check ahead).

If you’re in the car and you’re into your art, the next logical stop-off is Yorkshire Sculpture Park; set in 500 acres of rolling parkland at West Bretton, a 20-minute drive away, it is arguably the country’s best such park, whose 60 outdoor works (by artists including Elisabeth Frink, Henry Moore, Sol LeWitt and Andy Goldsworthy) are supplemented by regular new commissions, temporary installations and, of course, YSP’s five indoor gallery spaces. The café and restaurant are good (but can be heaving on sunny days and holidays), while the design-led shop is worth opening your wallet for; expect a solid range of art and design books, cards, homewares, jewellery and one-off artist commissions.

Closer to The Hepworth, a ten-minute drive to the east, is Nostell Priory, an 18th century house with glorious Robert Adam interiors. Set in 300 acres of parkland and complete with adventure playground and picturesque lake, it’s owned by the National Trust. Take a detour along the way to Heath Common, home to the pretty Heath Tea Rooms and Kings Arms Pub, the latter owned and operated by the award-winning Ossett Brewery (in a neat twist, the brewery created a bespoke beer for The Hepworth’s launch back in 2011).

Wakefield built its fortunes on textiles and has the architecture to prove it

But this is a guide to a day out in Wakefield, and though you could easily spend a day tinkering about on its edges we would be remiss not to mention the city itself. Wakefield, like so many northern towns around these parts, built its fortunes on textiles and has the architecture, those buildings whose grand embellishments speak of civic pride and fortunes made via cloth, to prove it. Starting at Wakefield Westgate Station, heading past the beautiful 18th-century Westgate Chapel (open for Sunday services only), a clutch of buildings remind passersby of this past; Pemberton House, adjacent to the chapel, once belonged to Pemberton Milnes, “cloth merchant and magistrate”. Opposite, at 97-99 Westgate, a solid Georgian terrace is livened up via the carved stone heads and a single ram that sit above every door and window arch. Closer to the station, the Grade II-listed Orangery runs small, community-led exhibitions. Built for Pemberton Milnes himself, it’s open weekdays only but hopes to run events in its sweet, ivy-clad and gravestone-peppered garden during the summer.

Westgate leads into the city centre; follow it up past the Theatre Royal (a building that also houses the tiny Time Bakery, an unprepossessing café serving bread baked on the premises) and head towards the newly renovated Wakefield Cathedral. Some parts of this light, airy and all-round lovely place of worship date back to medieval times while others – such as a floor whose stone was quarried at Holmfirth – are sympathetically new. The cathedral is open seven days a week, hosts regular music recitals, has an on-site café (with “good cake”, according to Joy, the volunteer we spoke to) and has a small play area for tots. Outside, you might find the Wakefield Chestnut Man, a talkative soul who stands on the square selling chestnuts roasted over a coal and wood fire between October and Easter. He knows his stuff; he should – he’s been doing it since the 1960s.

The rest of Wakefield is a mish-mash of old and new, and has both the up and downsides typical of British towns and cities. So while the newish Trinity Walk Shopping Centre peddles the same mix of shops as every other high street, a curious Elizabethan building at one end, on Brook Street, harks back to the 16th century. It was restored in 1981 and is apparently an exhibition hall, though we could find no sign of shows when we visited. Proper old man’s boozer, the Black Rock Pub (Cross Street) is a tiny squeeze of a place, CAMRA-rated, Victorian tiled and with changing guest ales on tap; it was serving Sheffield’s Kelham Island on our visit. Nearby, Deli Central (Bull Ring) is a family-run deli and is a good bet for sandwiches, salads and excellent coffee, restaurant Iris serves modern British food (Bull Ring; evenings only), while the literally brilliant Neon Workshops (George Street) runs neon-making courses and occasional exhibitions (check ahead for details). The latter is part of the bi-monthly Artwalk, an early evening self-guided walk that takes in many of Wakefield’s arts and other institutions.

Where Wakefield sets itself apart is in its civic architecture. Wood Street, for example, leads both to a secret square – Crown Court, surrounded by Georgian villas, one of which is the former Town Hall – and to the epic 19th-century Town Hall and County Hall. Though both are working buildings, visitors can take a limited peek inside. Crown Court, though, is ranged around a small, pedestrianized square; set into its recently installed paving is an inscription by the Wakefield-born author, George Gissing: “There is no such thing as bad weather; every sky has its beauty.” Maybe there’s another area Wakefield excels, then: in its quiet confidence and wry humour.

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The Glasgow International map features 53 separate sites, dotted around the city centre’s regimented street grid and edging out in all directions to the more unruly suburbs. This biennial festival of contemporary art infiltrates the city’s existing (and extensive) art infrastructure and adds a wealth of new, temporary venues and public sites for its 18 days.

Now in its sixth edition – and the first under new director Sarah McCrory – Glasgow International is both in and of the city. Shows by visiting international artists rub shoulders with exhibitions from equally well-travelled locals, and the sense of the city’s healthy cultural confidence is palpable.

For your visit to GI, start on Osborne Street at the Festival Hub in South Block, home to artists studios, creative businesses and All That Is Coffee – an artisan espresso outlet that also knows its way around a good cup of tea and a chai latte. Here you’ll find yourself within striking distance of some of Glasgow’s best independent bars, cafes and – of course – gallery spaces. A short walk up Osborne Street there’s The Modern Institute, for example, a commercial gallery with a 40-strong roster of artists that includes four Turner Prize winners. For GI, the gallery is hosting group show, Life & The Invitation& Vapour in Debri&. The Modern Institute’s other space nearby on Aird’s Lane is showing New York-based artist Anne Collier.

The singer looks much as he did in the 1980s. Must be the healthy Glasgow lifestyle.

While you’re in this part of town, you should also visit the artist-run Transmission Gallery on King Street – showing Puerto Rico’s Beatriz Santiago Muñoz – and its neighbours Street Level Photoworks (Latvian artist Arnis Balcus and the Netherlands’ Johan Nieuwenhuize) and Glasgow Print Studio (Glasgow artist Alex Frost). The Print Studio has an easy to browse shop with a fantastic collection of new and archive prints by Scottish and international artists.

Ready for a break? Get yourself to Once Upon A Tart on the opposite side of the street, a kitchen and bakery where you can indulge in home-baked treats of the sweet or savoury kind. If it’s alcohol you’re after, then try Mono, a bar and gig venue that serves vegan food and – curiously and brilliantly – has a record shop attached to it, run by the singer in legendary Glasgow indie band The Pastels. He’ll most likely be behind the counter, sifting through vinyl and looking pretty much as he did in the 1980s. Must be the healthy Glasgow lifestyle.

Where now? Further east, perhaps, to Charlotte Street where Hardeep Pandhal presents Jojoboys, a series of lamppost banners that explore the history and visual identity of Camp Coffee. (The factory that first made this coffee substitute, originally created in 1885 for Scottish soldiers in India, once stood on the street.) There’s more to see in the East End, such as the David Dale Gallery (showing Swiss artist Claudia Comte), but the other main cluster of GI activity is to the west of the city centre on Sauchiehall Street. Head on foot along Argyle Street, turn right onto Queen Street, and be sure to stop off on your way at GoMA (Gallery of Modern Art). Housed in a neo-Classical building built in 1778, it is showing the first major UK solo exhibition by Berlin-based Alexsandra Domanovic, as well as work by Modern Institute artist Sue Tompkins.

Now continue west towards Buchanan Street, where Glasgow comes to shop for shoes, clothes and all things Apple. If you’re in need of (more) good coffee, check out local chain Tinderbox, either in the upmarket Princess Square shopping centre or back east along Ingram Street, described by Glasgow’s marketers as “the city’s most exclusive fashion boulevard”. Which means Jigsaw, Ralph Lauren, Mulberry and a nearby Armani store.

At the top of Buchanan Street, turn left onto Sauchiehall Street by the Royal Concert Hall. A short walk will take you to McLellan Galleries, which has been brought out of its slumber for GI. Built in 1856 and now rarely used, it is hosting video work from Jordan Wolfson, paintings by Avery Singer, sculptural and audio-visual installations from Glasgow-based Charlotte Prodger, and a retrospective of Hudinilson Jr, the Sao Paulo-based artist who died earlier this year.

There’s another retrospective – this time of Palestinian artist Khaled Hourani – at the nearby Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA), as well as work by the four artists shortlisted for the Jerwood/Film and Video Umbrella Awards. With its airy indoor courtyard café, performance spaces and the Welcome Home craft and design store, CCA is a good place to linger. It’s got a great bookshop, too.

To the rear of CCA, you’ll find the Charles Rennie Mackintosh-designed Glasgow School of Art (showing Michael Stumpf’s wittily-observed sculptures), and opposite it you can’t miss the brand new Reid Building, clad in frosted glass panels and glancing knowingly at Mackintosh’s 1909 masterpiece.

There’s more to take in heading west, from Simon Martin at the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum to the foodie delights of the bars and restaurants on the Finnieston stretch of Argyle Street – try Crabshakk, where super-fresh seafood is handled with care, served with understated style and has even won the praise of Observer food critic, Jay Rayner.

Jump in a car or taxi now and head to the South Side – over the Clyde to Tramway on Albert Drive, which is showing three decades of work by American video and performance artist Michael Smith, along with a new commission from Welsh artist Bedwyr Williams. Further south, the disused Govanhill Baths features inflatable sculptures by Anthea Hamilton and Nicholas Byrne, and there’s more work on show at the artist-run Queens Park Railway Club. And with a name like that, how can you resist paying a visit?

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Drive to North Wales on the M56, and, just past Prestatyn, there’s the first view of the hills on the outskirts of Snowdonia. Pass the White Church of St. Asaph and Bodelwyddan Castle appears, an historic house and art gallery, a partner to the National Portrait Gallery and also good for tea and cakes. Coming off the A55, drive through the village of Glan Conwy, with its sweeping view across an inland lake up to Snowdonia. Conwy Castle is visible, looming over the ancient landscape as broodingly as the backdrop to Game of Thrones. Ten minutes further on is the Welsh Food Centre; pause here to stock up on bara brith.

Betws-y-Coed
Our first major stop, however, is Betws-y-Coed, a pretty little town that claims to be the Gateway to Snowdonia. Its biggest attraction is Swallow Falls – look for the Swallow Falls Hotel, opposite the turnstile entrance. A short walk leads up through fir trees planted in the 1920s and which now weigh over ten tonnes each (no, we don’t know who weighed them). From here a series of woodland walks are mapped out on an information board, but for a quicker stroll – one with a view yet with parking nearby – head for the falls’ south bank. The full monty can only be achieved, however, via a scramble up to the north bank on foot, and the sight of water crashing down the black rocks to the Afon Clugwy river makes up for the effort.

Back in town and time for lunch: the Alpine Coffee Shop, by the station, offers homemade cakes, bright interiors, and a free education on such environmental matters as why palm oil is bad for orangutans. The Conwy Valley Railway Museum nearby ups the twee ante with its café-in-a-carriage and model shop, but if Hornby train sets were never your thing, head to the town’s information centre, built around a courtyard of craft units. Here, artist Martin O’Neill makes and sells ceramics, while painter Daniel Crawshaw creates atmospheric Welsh landscapes – all very “Hinterland”. The Alison Bradley Gallery nearby sells landscape originals and prints. Thinking about sleeping over? Stay at the Summerhill Guest House – rooms from £40, with a breakfast room overlooking the river.

Porthmadog
Leaving Betws-y-Coed, turn right onto the A470. This drive, overhung with trees in summer, is a contrast to the bleak slate quarry of Blaenau Ffestiniog, which, sitting at the end of its namesake narrow gauge railway line, glowers over the village like something out of Doctor Who. The trains of the Ffestiniog Railway steam down the mountain valley to Portmeirion and Porthmadog.

Cars enter Porthmadog by crossing the Cob, a 19th-century sea wall; driving over it now supplies an unchanged-for-millennia view of Snowdonia. Opposite the Ffestiniog Railway station is Cob Records, home to rare vinyl and hopeful collectors. The tourist information office is at this end of the town, just past Craft Cymru. For lunch, stop at The Big Rock Café – it’s a Christian café with excellent baking and cheery staff. This street also has an independent bookshop and the Rob Piercy Art Gallery; a peaceful space selling original oils and watercolours.

Portmeirion
Now as famed for Festival No. 6 as for being the place where 1960s TV classic The Prisoner was filmed, Portmeirion is an architectural fantasy, a cluster of hillside buildings based on the Italian villages of founder Clough Williams-Ellis’s imagination. A rhododendron-lined drive leads visitors to ice-cream coloured houses and shops, and a series of beautiful walks around the headland and through the woods. Stop at the art deco Hotel Portmeirion for a restorative drink; its terrace overlooks the Dwyryd estuary.

Caernarfon
Take the coast road down towards Caernarfon, and marvel at its Marcher castle – now a World Heritage Site. Built on the foundations of a Roman fort in 1284, Caernarfon Castle was one of a chain of fortresses that ran along the Welsh-English border; designed by Edward I, they suggest brutish military power – and served as a reminder for the newly conquered Welsh that Edward, King of England, was now their monarch. He did pretty well – it still stands, after all. A walk around its ancient walls is a quick belt of pure history; head back into town after for coffee and homemade food at the Caffi Maes.

Llandudno
The “Queen of Resorts” may have seen better days, but at dusk the twinkling lights along Llandudno’s Victorian promenade are a reminder of the town’s heyday. Home to the longest pier in Wales – a solid, cast-iron structure stretching into the Irish Sea and rattling with amusements and shell stalls – Llandudno can be breathtakingly beautiful, if you know where to go. The town is bookended by two headlands, the Little Orme and the Great Orme. Take the cable-hauled tram up to the latter’s summit, or head to Happy Valley behind the pier for the cable car experience. From the top of this almost 700ft high hill it seems that all of Wales is laid out below; views stretch as far out as the Isle of Man.

Though most visitors head to the beach on the North Shore – small, packed and overshadowed by the clatter of fairground rides – the best beach in Llandudno is the West Shore. Its flat, sandy expanse is big enough to deserve the epithet “sweeping”, while a coastal path links it to the hill behind. Facilities are sparse here, however: a car park, basic but busy café (currently closed; check ahead for details) and toilets are about all that’s on offer.

Llandudno has its share of down-at-heel shops, and perhaps slightly more fish and chip shops than is strictly healthy, but it has a good smattering of antique and decent charity stores, too. And if you want to go old school, its annual May Day “Victorian Extravaganza” combines the sort of fairground rides and vintage transport that made many a 1970s childhood. The town centre closes for traffic, and its streets fill up with steam-powered engines (on parade), hook-a-duck, waltzers, locals dressed as Victorians and helter skelters. It is deeply, unashamedly old-fashioned fun.

Culture of a more grown-up kind can be found at MOSTYN, a contemporary art gallery at the top of Mostyn Street. When it opened in 1979, the gallery’s international exhibitions shook the matrons of Llandudno to their chapel-going core. Expanded in 2010 and the largest such art institution in Wales, it’s now comfortably bedded in and holds regular exhibitions of new work. Nearby, the theatre Venue Cyrmru stages Welsh National Opera performances alongside a mainstream diet of touring comedy, live acts and musicals. Stay over at Osborne House, an elegant Victorian fantasy of black chandeliers and polished floors, or head to the Escape B&B, a boutique hideaway where Mad Men meets Mostyn Street.

Travel details
Road: Head into Wales on the A55 before turning down towards Betws-y-Coed on the A470.The journey will take around 2 hours. From Betws-y-Coed travel down to Portmeirion and Porthmadog via Blaenau Ffestiniog on the A470. This is a scenic, 25-minute drive and the slate mines look positively surreal as you drop down into Blaenau. Take the coastal A487 from Porthmadog to Caernarfon, about 30 minutes, before continuing on to the A55 by the Menai Bridge. This takes you into Conway and Llandudno. Finally, take the A55 back into England towards Liverpool and Manchester.

Rail: Take the train to Llandudno, then a train to Blaenau Ffestiniog and join the Ffestiniog Railway to Porthmadog (or Minffordd for Portmeirion). Take the Welsh Highland Railway from Porthmadog to Caernarfon. Ffestiniog Travel (01766 772 030) can also arrange train bookings and accommodation – quote Road, Rail & Sea for the best deals.

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We’ve been banging on about TfGM’s Wayfarer ticket a good bit recently. Why? Well, we’re big fans of being able to travel anywhere in Greater Manchester using buses, trains and trams, as much as you like, for a whole day – for only £12. It’s only good value if you make the most of it, though, which is why we’ve put together our favourite trips in and around Manchester; so far, we’ve explored some super small museums, and made an escape to nature.

Next up, we’re looking at ways to travel with the family. The deal here is even better: two adults and two children under the age of 16 can buy a group Wayfarer for only £23. Or, if you want to leave the whole shebang behind and just take your favourite, there’s a £6 Wayfarer ticket for children 5-15 years old. Enough of the T&Cs though – where should you start exploring?

Discover how to use a radio telescope, listen to the sound of the Big Bang

Kids of all ages love Jodrell Bank Discovery Centre where you can explore the wonders if the universe, along with the huge – and it is huge – Lovell Telescope. Discover how to use a radio telescope, listen to the sound of the Big Bang and take part in the science shows and workshops in the Event Space during the holidays. To get there, take the train to Chelford and then a bus to the centre – and if you arrive hungry, the café is a good stop off.

On your way back, get off the train at Styal for a short walk to the National Trust’s industrial heritage site Quarry Bank, with its stunning gardens and cotton mill – perhaps via The Ship for a gastropub lunch. Alternatively, to avoid the walk, alight from the train at Wilmslow and take the 200 bus right to the property. In addition to the historic mill there’s plenty of space to run around, and you can spot planes landing at nearby Manchester Airport. To get a closer look, get back on the bus and head to the airport itself, where there are also tram and train services to get you back home.

The smallprint: Wayfarer lets you travel for a whole day by bus at any time and by train and tram after 9.30am weekdays and anytime Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. Half price for kids and over 60s – plus there’s a family ticket available. See the TFGM website for details.

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There’s only one problem with yoga: just as there are a hundred reasons for taking it up, so there are a hundred ways to practice it, from inclusive community groups to sweaty steam sessions. Working out which is right for you can be tricky; if you needed to unwind before you started searching, you’ll definitely need to after.

To save you the stress, we’ve been saluting the sun and doing the downward facing dog across Manchester, finding the best places to get on the path to inner peace.

1. Great Escape at the Whitworth

If practicing yoga in a picturesque place is a priority, then look no further than the Whitworth’s Great Escape yoga classes. Taking place in a gallery that overlooks the park, these morning sessions give you the chance to get energised in a peaceful environment. There’s something rather satisfying about watching other people walking to work while you’re getting supple, and Karen Mee the instructor is easy to follow and relaxing to listen to. A lot of the participants have been coming to this class for years, but it is equally good for beginners (like me). Bring your own mat if you have one, as there are only a limited number to borrow. Classes 8.30am-9.45am on Thursdays, £5.

2. Yoga Express, Studio 25

Convenient for those in the city centre, Studio 25 has both early afternoon and evening drop in classes, which make for a good wind-down from work. Instructor Matt Ryan brims with positivity, offering helpful hints for both beginners and seasoned practitioners. The space itself is big (so you’ve got lots of room) and because it is a dance studio the walls are mirrored, which really helps with holding the correct posture. Classes 6pm-6.45pm Mon & Wed, 12.15pm-1pm Tues & Fri, £6.

 3. Weekly classes, Ziferblat

Check out our article on this new space on Edge Street, where all you pay for is the time you spend (it’s 5p/minute, with drinks and snacks included). The same goes for the yoga classes there. There are plenty of mats, and makes the postures easy to understand – plus, you can have cake afterwards. Sweet! Classes 6.15pm every Thursday, 5p/minute or £3/hour.

 4. Bodywise, The Buddhist Centre

The epicentre of Manchester yoga, Bodywise (in the Buddhist Centre) offers a number of different classes, courses and ways to get involved with yoga. If you want to find out what yoga is all about this is the best place to start before trying out other options. Christine, who teaches several of the classes, was recommended to me by both Danielle from Ziferblat and Karen from the Whitworth. The building can sometimes be a bit noisy, but the room is spacious and the Buddhist Centre generally emanates a tranquil vibe. Times and prices vary, see website for details.

 5. Bikram Yoga, Church Street

This is the one you’ve probably heard about – the hot one – but nothing quite prepares you for how hot it actually is, which is to say very hot (40 degrees). Best to shower beforehand so you feel fresh, you need to bring a couple of towels, a yoga mat and plenty of water with you (plus a pound coin if you want to keep your stuff secure). After about five minutes I thought I was going to faint, but you do get used to it and by the end it is almost enjoyable. (Almost.) The session lasts an hour and a half, but give yourself 15 minutes beforehand to get ready and another 20 after to take a shower. I wouldn’t suggest trying this until you’ve given another kind of yoga a go first. The people who do go seem very committed; Bikram yoga strikes me as almost a lifestyle choice rather than simply a relaxation activity (make of that what you will). A range of times and deals available, see website for details.

6. The Old Parsonage, Didsbury

Yoga in a Grade II-listed building, set in a lovely old English garden by a park – who could ask for more? The great thing yoga at The Old Parsonage is you’re already feeling restful before you begin, with none of the noise and bustle of other, inner city options – this class also has more of a community feel to it. A number of different instructors offer classes in this beautiful building, with Manjunaga’s Monday night session a good place to start for a beginner (6pm-7.15pm & 7.30pm-9pm, £7.50/£6 conc). Times and prices vary, see website for details.

Did we miss out your favourite? Tell us in the comments.

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We spoke to Yorkshire Sculpture Park’s Clare Lilley about public art, Frieze Art Fair and just how she managed to persuade artists such as Ai Weiwei and Yinka Shonibare to show new work in a park near Wakefield. While we were at it, we also asked her to name her top three northern art galleries. She kindly obliged, with a list that’s as varied as it is considered.

#1. The Hepworth Wakefield

It’s perhaps no surprise that The Hepworth was top of Clare Lilley’s list: this David Chipperfield-designed gallery, which rises from the River Calder, is Yorkshire Sculpture Park’s nearest neighbour. But proximity aside, is it also a place that’s “good because of its programming and good because of the building; it’s just a wonderful place.”

#2. The Bluecoat

One of the oldest buildings in Liverpool city centre, the Bluecoat is quite often the first place we head when on a jaunt to the Scouse city. It combines gallery space with independent shops, a secret garden, contemporary craft, a café and a bistro. It is, says Lilley, “an unsung gallery, terrific in terms of its space and programming.”

#3. The Bowes Museum

Lilley’s wildcard, this 19th-century French château nestles somewhat incongruously in the bosom of Barnard Castle, a market town near Durham. It houses incredible fine and decorative arts collections, stages regular contemporary shows and has everything from a playground to a life-size musical, mechanical swan. “It’s a museum that’s been left behind a bit; it’s old fashioned yet has contemporary art, and is totally bonkers,” says Lilley. It gets our vote.

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Did you know that a Wayfarer ticket allows you to travel anywhere in Greater Manchester using buses, trains and trams, as much as you like, for a whole day? That’s including parts of Cheshire, Derbyshire, Lancashire, Staffordshire and the Peak District – basically, you’re spoiled for choice. Best of all, it’ll only set you back £12. So, with that in mind, we’ve put together a series of mini guides to low budget, low stress and super green travel in and around Manchester. Here are our top picks for an escape to nature.

See woodpeckers in February, butterflies in June and bats in September

If you enjoy the outdoor life, but aren’t at home in a pair of walking boots, you can keep your feet dry(ish) by heading to Northwich and the confluence of the rivers Weaver and Dane. Take the bus to the north of the town centre as far as Northwich Woodlands, a collection of nine green sites with a world of wildlife waiting to be discovered – on foot, on a hired bike or on horseback. What you’ll spot will depend on the time of year; see woodpeckers in February, butterflies in June and bats in September. Check out the guide to the site before you go to see what’s in season.

On your way back, stop off at Altrincham train station (itself not far from Alty Market) for a bus right to the entrance of Dunham Massey, with its National Trust house, formal gardens, deer park and 3,000 acre estate (entrance fee applies). Once known as “Manchester’s green lung,” fallow deer roam between trees and small hillocks, while one of our favourite pubs – The Swan with Two Nicks – is just a short walk away (hop over the stile behind the mill).

The small print: Wayfarer lets you travel for a whole day by bus at any time and by train and tram after 9.30am weekdays and anytime Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. Half price for kids and over 60s – plus there’s a family ticket available. See the TFGM website for details.

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There’s an old piece of wisdom that says “a problem shared is a problem halved”. That might be true, but here at Creative Tourist we have our own coinage: “double the company, double the fun”. With that soon-to-be ubiquitous phrase in mind, we’ve compiled a list of our favourite clubs, groups and societies, for meeting like-minded people and discovering more about art, astronomy, and much more.

Manchester Astronomical Society

Not to be confused with astrology (when I mistakenly told friends I was off to an astrology meeting thought I was joining a cult), the Manchester Astronomical Society holds monthly lectures open to the public in the John Dalton Building at Manchester Metropolitan University. The quality of the speakers is simply astounding, with specialists on the cutting edge of interstellar research coming along to share their work. When I was there I got to handle an actual piece of moon rock – and if you join the society you get to use their amazing telescope at the Godlee Observatory in the city centre, which is a marvel in itself. John Dalton Building, MMU, 7.30pm. Free

Lunchtime Art Bites

The art gallery actually has quite a few groups associated with it, but the most interesting is Lunchtime Art Bites. Show up at 12:30pm every Wednesday to meet with other people interested in art. Two paintings are discussed at each session, and the chat is always lively – especially after a couple of cups of coffee. Manchester Art Gallery, 12.30pm every Wednesday. Free

betternotstop

Hannah Cox, the club’s founder, was inspired to start betternotstop after she moved to Manchester a few years back. “I realised I didn’t have people to meet up and do interesting things with,” she says. “It’s easy to feel disconnected and isolated in modern life, and this is a way of getting round that and making real connections.” As well as meeting for regular guest talks and film nights, they also organise day trips and other activities. You’ll soon find that Hannah’s enthusiasm for life is infectious.

Superbia

Superbia is an on-going series of community and culture events organised by Manchester Pride. Includes the intellectual stimulation of lectures and theatre productions, as well as let-your-hair-down fun, like music nights and cake baking competitions. Superbia is the perfect way to introduce yourself to Manchester’s thriving LGBT community.

Manchester Centre for Regional History

With the free talks organised by the regional history department at MMU, you never know quite what you’re going to get – or what unusual facts will be unearthed. The talks are a great place to go for tea, biscuits and a chat with both history buffs and those with a casual interest.

Modernist Society

As well as putting out a must-read mag, the Manchester Modernist Society organise regular events and activities. If you’ve got even a passing interest in design, city planning or architecture, this is the group for you. A recent screening of films about Hulme (where I live) was one of the most informative evenings I’ve had in a long time. Also look out for the magazine launch nights, which usually involve a few glasses of wine and a lot of impassioned chatter.

SCI Seminar Series

It seems like we all want to live a greener life, but we’re never quite sure where to start. Well, the SCI Seminar Series will tell you. Organised by the Sustainable Consumption Institute at Manchester University, this monthly lecture series gets down to the finicky details of going green as well as addressing wider environmental issues.

Gaskell Society

For fans of Elizabeth Gaskell’s work, as well as those interested in her life and proto-feminist leanings, these talks in both Manchester and Knutsford are a must. Regular guest lecturers unpack the meaning and significance of her writing, and the Manchester meetings are held in the striking surrounds of the Cross Street Chapel, where Gaskell’s husband William was minister.

People’s History Museum

Of all Manchester’s many magnificent museums the PHM seems to be the best at events for young families. Whether designing your own banknote, fashioning a sculpture from recycled material or engaging in a story-telling session, there’s something going on at least once a month and often every week. Sessions are somewhat irregular though, so you have to keep an eye on the events section of their website.

Manchester Literary and Philosophical Society

For those who like to put their brain through some serious paces, there’s the Manchester Literature & Philosophical Society. Running since 1781, this group meet up to discuss – you guessed it – literature and philosophy. However, some more light-hearted offerings, like an upcoming lecture on the history of lesser-known small ball games, are also in the schedule.

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